33 to Marathon Key

The day spent at Cheeca Lodge was perfect — all of it. Recommendations for a couple places to visit were a hit as well…the boys had milkshakes for breakfast at Midway Cafe (half way between Miami and Key West).

And then the fun began that evening with a visit to Robbie’s Marina! A couple of friends told us to go to Robbie’s and feed the tarpon…well, these were dinosaur tarpons! Some of those fish are 6 feet! There were hundreds of them ( if you’ve been there and I’m exaggerating at all…call me out)!

Now I am laughing as I write…somewhat hysterically, as I think about Derek and Jacob trying to feed the tarpon. You see, our friends didn’t tell us about the stealthy pelicans. Every time the boys held a little yellow snapper out for a big fish to jump and eat, a stealthy pelican would appear to snatch the little Nemo! It wasn’t long before the pelicans became bold and began to follow the boys around the pier…there is nothing more funny than seeing two varsity wrestlers being chased by pelicans! Well, yes, there is one thing…it’s when Derek, who had to have a shower before going Robbie’s, gets pooped on by a seagull…the look of horror and disgust…hahaha…snort…it was a great evening!

Today was an early start…on the road by 7:30 to try to beat the heat. We almost made it, but the last 10 miles were brutal when the sun came out. We were all excited to see Tranquility Beach Resort come into view.

We road 33 miles today, over several long bridges giving us an expansive view of emerald green water…it is absolutely breath taking.

Unfortunately in Marathon Key and on various parts of the trail you can see significant hurricane damage. The work it will take to restore buildings, roads, and trails is mind boggling. Consequently, there is construction happening everywhere.

The day has been spent by the pool with the lizards and iguanas…they make ’em big down here…people really freak when they head for the pool! Below is a baby one….

Last story tonight…we’ve been on a quest for an ice cream stand, with no success! Last night one of the boys, we will not name the guilty, called the resort’s front desk and asked if there was a place on the property the could get ice cream. The answer was, “possibly.” Our teenager, who still shall not be named, promptly replied, “thank you,” AND HUNG UP! What?!? We did not have ice cream last night.

BUT tonight. We. Have. Ice. Cream. In. The. Freezer.

Biking to Islamorada

All biking peeps were accounted for, and we were off this morning…biking to Cheeca Lodge in Islamorada! After a quick breakfast and strapping of bags on bikes, we were on our way! Hold on, hold on…not so fast…first stop…across the street to Napa Auto …yes, that is auto…to purchase tools and parts for minor bike issues!

Most of the ride is on a bike path…some on the road. We only rode 18 miles today so we took it slow, did a lot of talking, and stopped at some tourist traps. Slowly we watched the ocean change from deep blue to all the incredible shades of azure and turquoise. A beautiful transformation! We had lunch at a sweet little sandwich shop and then had five miles to the lodge…the longest five miles of the ride. John likened the last five miles to the last two minutes of a football game…it went on forever…not because we didn’t enjoy it –on the contrary–because we stopped at every interesting place we saw!

Cheeca Lodge is a delight all of its own. There is a lot of construction because they sustained $80 million dollars in damage from last years hurricane. It is a beautiful place and the location isn’t so bad either! Anyway we’re all settled in for a couple days before hopping on the bikes and heading south. So glad to be doing this ride with Ron, Shell, and two high energy, crazy fun teenage boys! Blessed.

What a relaxing, fun day. One of the boys summed it up earlier today by saying, “I could ride like this all day!”

Portland to the Keys and 25 degrees

…what a difference a day makes!

After nine months of planning it’s finally here…biking from Key Largo to Key West! We arrived a couple days early as we knew it would take a couple days to get vacationized…we’re officially there!

The rest of the biker peeps arrive tomorrow, and we’re so excited. After all, on a ride like this you want to share the fun!

With all that said, as the pictures show, we have enjoyed a couple days in the sun. We both agree that the highlight so far is the glass bottom boat ride to Molasses Coral Reef just outside of John Pennekamp State Park. The reef is six miles off the coast. Dramamine was my friend today as we rode out in 2-3 foot waves. It was a gorgeous trip. The reef was alive with colorful fish and seaweed. We even saw a sea turtle and a barracuda! On the way back to the park, we had three dolphins chaperoning the boat, taking turns showing us their moves…it was magical…I think that is when I realized that life has more meaning than the mundane, petty issues we get wrapped up in everyday …there is so much beauty around us.

Anyway! Back to the resort where we will

spend two more nights! Being here is being transported back to the 50s…as you can see from some of the pictures. It’s a quiet spot that kind of grabs onto you, demanding that you let everything else go….beautiful sunsets, nice people, great food…

The rest of the biker peeps arrive tomorrow…after another gorgeous sunset.

Until tomorrow.❤️

Storing Up Memories!

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Gargoyles!
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One of the bells in the Notre Dame tower.
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The wooden steps going up the bells in the belfry
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Climbing 387 steps!!
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Looking at the Eiffle Tower from the top of Notre Dame…amazing!
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Looking out our hotel window.
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A cool little building on one of our walks.
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The last night…watching the sunset on Notre Dame…sad and beautiful.
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Last night, saying good bye to Notre Dame. What a view.
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Hanging out on the top of Notre Dame…the views were mesmerizing.

DSCN3379 DSCN3384 DSCN3385 DSCN3395 DSCN3402 DSCN3404 DSCN3428 The last sweet day in The City of Light. A day with no real plan, but a day to stroll, amble, and meander without true destinations. A day to take in the overall scene, to savor the essence, and to harbor for the future just what it feels like to be here in this wonderful, vibrant city.

Well there was one little plan. To this point we had not been to any of the high places to see the city from above. After breakfast we hustled over to Notre Dame, just a block away, to check out the line for climbing to the top. It is usually a long line and due to restrictions of timing, pace and number of people at a time, the line moves very slowly. They only allow access to smalls groups at a time. The line was short, and we figured we would be in the second group after the entrance opened. We were in the second group and soon were on our way up the narrow, spiral stone staircase to the top of the tower. The stairs begin to get narrower, and spiral more tightly the higher you go. After a fairly long climb you arrived at the Galerie des Chimeres. This is the level at which the towers become separate entities and where the famous gargoyles (chimeres) are located. There is just no way to describe how impressive these statue creatures are, but I am pretty sure they move around at night! There is a doorway into the interior of the bell tower. We were amazed to see the enormous wooden structure that hold the bells, and by the immense size of the bells. From this level you enter another smaller stone spiral stairway and climb on to the top of the tower. Oh what a view! All of Paris spread out before you. The river winding away below, and the Eiffel Tower off in the distance, and so many other landmarks visited in the past few days. Climbing the 387 steps is a very small price to pay for this view of the whole city.

Now to the unplanned part of the day. As you are aware we tend to walk a lot. Over seventy miles so far as of this morning. Today was afoot, but truly strolling. We both wanted to revisit Le Marais area and explore small of the side streets and small shops. Any shop of interest to either was fair game, and we literally whiled the day away in small streets, hidden alleys, and little cafes. For the moment we were just a part of the life of Paris.

The people of Paris were marvelous to us. They proved to be warm, friendly and extremely willing to help us with directions, finding items in stores, and just helping us explore their city.

Later, as the evening approached, we strolled again around Ile Saint Louis, and back across the bridge to the hotel. We settled in the hotel lobby/dining room with a glass of wine to watch as the setting sun emblazoned the front of Notre Dame in brilliant light, and then slowly faded into twilight.

C’est Fini!

Rainy Days are Wonderful Too!

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Mars, the god of war
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Winged Victory
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Cute little goat…just for Tristan. 🙂
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Venus de Milo

DSCN3354 DSCN3349 This day was forecast to be rainy all day, so the plan was to make good use of umbrellas in a meandering, low key sort of amble around the city. We did intend to visit a museum or two if it worked out.  After a leisurely breakfast at the café we set our sights on the Musee d’Orsay. The draw of the museum was as much for the building as the art it houses. It is a converted train station and highly recommended for the architecture. At this point, mid-morning, the rain was quite heavy and our reasoning was that there would not be that many people in line. Apparently several hundred others had developed the same flawed reasoning, and we were greeted on our arrival by a vast sea of umbrellas. While walking in the rain doesn’t bother us, the thoughts of standing in line for an hour or two created an immediate shift in direction. Fortunately, one is never far from a café in Paris and we settled in to our second one of the day to regroup and decide a direction. There is a cultural difference in being at a café in Paris, as opposed to the states. The wait person takes your order, delivers your food and drink, and then totally ignores you (this is a good thing). There was never any pressure to finish up, hurry, or move along. There were almost always additional seats, so you never felt you were inconveniencing someone else looking for a spot. Even when we tended to dawdle over a small plate, enjoy the spectacular people watching, or have a planning session for whatever might be ahead, we generally still left people at the café tables that had been there when we arrived. This particular time we decided to head further in from the right bank of the Seine and search for more streets and alley ways. It would be easy to see more of the major sights than we have if we utilized the metro, but exploring on foot suits our need to feel a total immersion in the city, and experience the life as well as the sights. After wandering from shop to shop in arrondissement two, we finally found another recommended delight called Gallery Vivienne. It is an elegant indoor shopping area. The interior is much like a palace with intricate mosaic floors, vaulted glass ceilings, and beautiful chandeliers. Ah, but of course it also has a beautiful café in the foyer. Must surely be time for lunch, and a beverage? Just want to add here; there is no such thing as bad bread in Paris. It is all delightful.

By now, a bit damp and sore of foot, we decided to head back to the hotel, but it seemed prudent to check the line at the Louvre museum on the way. Although there were mobs of people around, the line was short and we quickly entered beneath the great glass pyramid to one of the world’s most renowned collections of millions of things. Also, I must say, into one of the most confusing places I have ever been. Once you get your bearings, it becomes apparent there is this mass movement of the throngs like a magnetic pull toward the Mona Lisa painting. Tempting as that may be, we chose to spend our limited time heading towards different interests. Our chosen path took us through the Egyptian antiquities and the Greco Roman statues to the lady we preferred above the Mona Lisa. What a thrill to see the statue of Aphrodite of Milos, or as most of us have known it Venus de Milo. Truly as beautiful as all the stories have led us to believe!

Returned to the hotel to dry and rest. Then a late dinner at a café. Seems we have fallen into a pattern here. Breakfast, snacks, lunch around three or four, dinner at eight or nine. Another habit to break on returning home.

Way Behind……Again

11951056_837379453048053_1101341273_n DSCN3363 DSCN3377Well the past two days have been extraordinary, busy, different, and a strangely relaxing and unique experience. We will catch every thing up on the flight across the big pond tomorrow. Yesterday was a rainy day, all day, no let up. The title for the day will likely be eating and drinking our way across Paris. We saw and explored a lot with no pressure or schedule to be anywhere. We did end up going to the Louvre, but strangely enough it was not a target destination. It was fun to learn that Paris is fun and fascinating even in the rain.

Today was a day with no real plan. Sometimes the best kind of days, with very memorable results.

As a close out of the trip we will touch on what we have learned about money, carrying your daily needs, Parisians, cultural, etc. We are very sad to leave this adventure, but Paris will be back on the bucket list!

An Insane Riot of Flowers

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Water lilly from Monet’s garden
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The water lilly garden…the willow trees are as pretty as the flowers
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View from Monet’s bedroom window…overlooking his gardens
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Monet’s modest, yet beautiful kitchen…love, love, love!
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View from the outdoor cafe at dinner time…9:30 p.m., which is normally bedtime for us!
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Bike tour picnic…on our way to Giverney
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In Monet’s garden

DSCN3305 Today is another day excursion out of the city. We both have great admiration for the impressionistic paintings of Monet. So of course we couldn’t resist a chance to see his home, and most of all, his gardens which were the subjects of many of his paintings. To make it a bit of an adventure, and learn some art history along the way, we took the advice of our friend Annelise W., and signed up for a tour with Fat Tire Bike Tours of Paris. As a rule we prefer to go it on our own even if it means learning a few things the more difficult way, but for this we broke the rules. Thank you Annelise!

Rose early, tucked into some croissants and a cafe au lait or espresso or two, then in the interest of time (not to mention tired legs and feet) grabbed a taxi at the stand just outside the breakfast cafe. The driver delivered us to the  Gare Saint Lazare, one of the oldest and busiest train stations in Paris. It is a wonderful building, and so fitting to start from here since some of Monet’s early works were of the interior of this station. Here we met Kit, the guide, and the rest of the tour group. After assorted introductions, we boarded the train and headed for the village of Vernon some forty-five minutes away. Kit gave a fascinating, story filled, history rich talk on art, politics, revolution and war, and how they all set the stage to create the impressionistic art movement in France. We arrived in Vernon, collected our bicycles and headed to the market to purchase lunch. It was a local open air market in the village with an amazing selection of cheeses, breads, little dried sausages, as well as locally made ciders. After stocking up with way to much for lunch we biked to a pastoral spot in the country on the banks of the Seine river, and had a picnic. Then we bike about three and a half miles through beautiful French country side to Monet’s home and gardens. After the manicured gardens of Versailles, these gardens were like perennials gone wild. All types of flowers, mixed color every where, all blended into a grand and pleasing design much like Monet’s paintings. Seeing the waterlilies he immortalized was a very moving experience. His house was fairly modest for a man of his renown, but fit the image, and artistic impression of the man. Soon it was back to the bikes, the train, and headed for Paris. Back in the city before seven  in the evening.

Okay, gotta have another small world moment. Brenda and I had a chance to talk to our guide.He is an American expatriate living in Paris. Born of American parents in Malawi, Africa, raised in Asia and the United States. He came to Paris to complete art studies, fell in love, married and is a wealth of knowledge about Paris and French history. When he asked where we were from, he seemed surprised with the answer. He said we don’t get a lot of customers from Maine. Then he went on to say that as a boy and later, as a counselor, he attended and then worked at a camp on Cobbosseecontee Lake near Augusta. Again, just up the road from us.

Once back at the station, with no time constraints, we decided to walk back to the hotel via some dinner spot. We discovered some nice old streets with a variety of shops, cafes, and sidewalk crepe makers. Finally crossed the bridge over the Seine and had dinner very late at one of our comfort spot cafes. Tomorrow calls for an all day warm rain. Sounds like a nap sort of day, but time grows short and there is so much to see.

A Palace and a Hamlet

To continue on with the trip to Versailles. We have had really good luck with getting up and arriving early at tourist attractions to beat the rush. Well, today we tried a different approach and paid, to some extent, the price. First we slept in the needed extra hour, lingered over an extra chocolate croissant and additional cup of espresso, before heading for the RER station. It took us a bit to figure out there are sort of three train systems here. There is the metro (subway), the RER (regional trains to Versailles, airports and Disney –yup Mickey’s here somewhere too), and the grand line trains to all the rest of France. We boarded with a hoard of people around ten-ish. By this time we knew there would be considerable lines, but it is still the chance of a lifetime. Brenda had done the research and upon arriving in the village of Versailles, the mass of people turned right to follow the signs, while we turned left. Down a narrow street by a cafe we went, turned up a beautiful lane with towering Sycamore trees arched over head. It was beautiful, quiet, and we were almost totally alone. We arrived at the gates to the palace ahead of those from our train, but of course other trains had already arrived, not to mention those who drove or arrived by tour buses. The lines were long even though we had purchased museum passes ahead of time. In all fairness the lines moved quickly, and the people running security entrance checks were efficient in performing their duties. There is no point in trying to describe the elegant, rich beauty of the palace. While it may emphasize the gap between wealthy and poor (royalty and peasants), it does not distract from the incredible beauty. From the king’s chambers, queen’s chambers, to the coronation room, the Salon de la Guerre with it’s massive paintings of famous battles, and of course the incomparable Hall of Mirrors, it is truly, overwhelmingly stunning. Pictures do not do true justice to this place.

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Versailles
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Hall of Mirrors – Versailles
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Hall with pictures of famous battles — this is an artists dream.
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Versailles gardens with the palace in the background
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Looking from the gardens of Versailles up to the palace. The large piece of modern art sits in the middle. The modern art piece was titled, “Dirty Corner,” and was literally a pile of dirt with a large metal trumpet looking structure.
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Having fun on our bikes!
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Marie Antoinette’s hamlet.
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Luxembourg Gardens
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…the little boat that we enjoyed watching as much as the kids!
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Our view from dinner…just beautiful.

DSCN3242 DSCN3248   Then to the gardens. Exquisitely  manicured shrubs, meticulously placed flowers, and fountains and pools filled with amazing statuary. The only negative I would mention is a temporary “modern art” display, that unfortunately breaks up the sweep of some of the long range views of the palace from the gardens. At this  juncture we are deep in the gardens, weather is somewhat threatening, and the debate is whether to continue on out to another section created by Louis IV, and enhanced by later kings to escape the daily grind of the main palace. This became a favorite part of the estate for Marie-Antoinette. This would add a lot of distance and rain seemed not far away. Brenda spied the bike rental place, and again saved the day. Once saddled up we covered the ground in no time to see Marie-Antoinette’s quaint farm hamlet and the small palace away from the palace. Such insights into history we have studied in school, or known through movies, documentaries, and historical novels has been such a thrill for us to see.

By the time we completed the circuit, exited the courtyard, and wound our way back into the village, the sky opened to unleash a downpour. There were numerous cafes lining the narrow street and we huddled with drinks and snacks under the awnings with tourists and welcoming local people alike. Then to the train and “home”.

After a little refresher in the hotel room we decided to pursue an evening meal. Brenda had some specific interest in a direction we had not yet explored. So yet another part of of an extremely diverse city began to unfold before us. As we walked up hill toward our goals we passed the Sorbonne, the famous university founded in 1253. Next was the goal, the Luxembourg Gardens. It is a beautiful garden with a large central pond in front of the Luxembourg Palace. There was a single model sailboat plying the waters of the pond. There are, we are told, often numerous small boats sailing here, but the single boat crisscrossing the water was somehow mesmerizing. From there to the Pantheon, beautiful churches silhouetted in the dusk, narrow cafe filled streets, and a quite evening meal to close out the day.

How We All Should Live!

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Tonight’s post is brief. Will give a brief explanation, and a couple of photos and then try to catch up tomorrow. We went to the palace at Versailles, which was built by King Louis IV starting in 1661. Lavish, opulent, extraordinary and many other words of excess fail to touch the grandeur of this place. This was supposed to be an easy day, but by the time we returned to Paris, walked to see a couple of other places, etc. it is already eleven o’clock. We totaled up the miles today, and we have walked 52.8 miles in the past five days. We have to be up early tomorrow to catch a train. It will connect us with a bike adventure to Giverny to visit Monet’s house and gardens, so must beg off for this post.

Box Number Five! ( for all you Phantom fans)

The walk continues through another marvelous day. Rain showers, wind, and sunny skies all played their role in showing the shades and facets of Paris. Early this morning we headed over the Notre Dame cathedral even before coffee (are you kidding me?). Again the hope was to slip in ahead of the crowds, and what a wonderful, quiet, and peaceful time we had. The massive cathedral was ours for almost half an hour with a few scattered other people, who were also willing to participate in the silence. We sat  awed and silent in the front row  gazing at the incredible architecture all around us, and the massive stained glass rose windows at the over the north and south entrances. Each window measures 43 feet in diameter, and both were originally created in the 13th century. The age of things on this side of the ocean are often humbling to those of us from the new world. We were able to tour the entire area open to the public by the time the crowds began to arrive. Although there are signs asking for silence, the crowds seem immune to such pleas. We slipped out an exit and were on our way to our favorite breakfast cafe and the wonderful coffee.

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VIew from the chandelier to the seats in Palais Garnier. Amazing!
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Breakfast…crepes.
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The inside of Notre Dame.
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The entrance to Notre Dame.
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Outside of Palais Garnier.
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Palais Garnier.
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THE chandelier!

Even though we had rain showers around, and a rather sketchy forecast  we decided to make the hike up through the the right bank to arrondissement nine to the opera district. The destination goal was the Opera National de Paris Garnier. It is considered one of the most opulent buildings of its time and even now. It is breathtaking in every respect. Gold gilded halls, infinity mirrors, grand marble staircases, chandeliers everywhere, and you would not be to the auditorium yet. And yes, the auditorium does not destroy the image. All the box seats are gilded in gold, every seat is covered in deep red velvet, and in the domed ceiling far overhead is the famed chandelier, with almost four hundred lights, and a weight of seven tons. Truly stunning. Since we chose a guided tour we were allowed to go into the actual lower auditorium and sit in the seats near the orchestra pit. Just ahead of us over head is the emperor’s box, and right over our head is box five which was always demanded by the Phantom of the Opera for every performance. Whether one believes or not in the mysterious phantom, the box is kept empty for every single performance in the Palais-Garnier to this very day. When we looked up and saw that box, we both could hear in our heads the thundering opening beats of the pipe organ from the overture of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s play Phantom of the Opera (still an all time favorite)!

From there it was a long rainy, windy walk back to the hotel. Still a very satisfying day.